A Long Enjoyable Flashback.....

And back in sunny Cape Town , it was time to get ready for the much anticipated and eagerly awaited, Traditional Highland Ball. I got the dress sorted, and the Cape Grace BMW Chauffeur drive to the CTICC. Daniel and George (my two managers) accompanied me ( all kitted out in their " Bascule" kilts) and we made our way over to the venue, to host a few Bascule Whisky Members.

And what a night it turned out to be! I was in my element, bagpipes echoed though the Ballroom, their emotionally charged performance was welcomed and thoroughly enjoyed ( yes, yes, I cant help myself, I did get tears in my eyes ......again....)

One of the other highlights of the evening, was a moving and emotional tribute to Don Paul, the South African Whisky Legend. I never had the fortune to meet or work with him before his passing. I was truly saddened by the tribute presented, as I believe any of us, who have a passion for whisky, and who work in the industry lost a guru and mentor, without fully realising it...

Thank you Don Paul, you might not know if, but you have made me more passionate and enthusiastic about educating the public about this wonderful golden spirit we have all come to love. May you rest in peace, and may Scottish Angels always be by your side.

Onto a lighter note, the Bascule Table was a blast, thanks gents! Really had a great time! The Scottish dancers, bagpipers and whisky entertained for hours, and the dance floor was also made use of......

I am in the process of uploading my photos from Scotland onto the relevant entries ( please do note that all the major whisky hopping and touring took place on the first 2 pages, explore away....)

Slainte

The Macallan

1. The Macallan new make spirit all matures on site
2. And, how barrels are charred in the U.S....
3. Traveled in style, nothing less than The Macallan Range Rover
4. I explored their very own Fishing Beat, along the River Spey... Stunning!
5. Also ventured to the Speyside Cooperage, folks the cooperage photos are rather rare.... so enjoy....

If you want more... See the following links: "Speyside Cooperage & The Macallan " and "Haggis, Macallan 30 and a wee look into a copper pot still"

Glenmorangie

1. Slainte!! Hosted at Glenmorangie House , I had my Glenmorangie Original to keep me company
2. ... And the stunning scenes, I got to explore....
3. If you take a closer look at your favourite Glenmorangie, you will see this engraving on their label.... its steeped in history!

@ the distillery, a close up encounter with the tallest stills in the industry, a look into the washbacks and a pic to prove I WAS THERE!

See Post titled " Lost Luggage, Scotland's Tallest stills.... " to get more insight into my first distillery experience.

View from Albannach Whisky bar in Trafalgar Square...

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These are a few of my favourite things..

Hit a few great spots yesterday,I was left to my own devices. Hit Oxford street early, not my favourite place to shop as its soooo full of tourists, none the less, my credit card was...um... Abused. Then I needed some tlc, so hit EAT, one of the widely accessible local cafes. Very fresh produce always! Great sarmie... I then roamed the West End streets, not just the big names, but the smaller side allies too...less tourists, more to see. Covent Garden still remains one of my favourite areas in London, popped into a relatively new spot called Ella's- best Red Velvet Cupcakes, once again, I fell in love! Roamed a few more hours, and then lay in Green Park, looking up @ the trees & watching the Londoners sun themselves...
I met up with my dear friend Cath @ Albannach bar in Trafalgar Square which claims to be a "whisky bar" so I had to try it out:
Nice location - see the whole of Trafalgar square.
Waitress you could hear was not a whisky buff... But friendly.
Good selection on the menu, but strangely some of the more usual cats missing , no Glenmorangie or Highland Park 12, not much Macallan either.
Very suave decor inside, took a few snaps, will upload shortly. They have a few whisky tasting options ( some very similar to Bascules)
Overall rating regarding whisky 6/10... Oh and they also claim to have the best fish and chips in town....
We went to Gourmet Burger Kitchen for dinner, great vibe, speedy service and superb burgers( Garlic Mayo and Avo and Bacon burgers were tested 10/10!) Had a very yum Kiwi beer too, upload pic later... Spent the evening wondering the side roads of the West End... Great atmosphere, people spilling out onto the roads from over-packed pubs, Londoners really come out in full force when the sun comes out to play!Oh and also popped into National Portrait Gallery, wonderful spot - free entrance, I did my cultural thing :)
My trip is slowly coming to close...
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Ella's bakehouse in Covent Garden_ superb Red Valvet cupcakes...

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Whirlwind coming to an end...

I arrived in the scenic town of Pitlochry and set off on foot to the Blair Athol distillery (one of the oldest distilleries in Scotland,92% goes into the world famous Bells) and only 8% into the wonderful Blair Athol single malt. Due to a tiny mis-communication back in SA, I did not think they were expecting me... So I paid the £5 entrance happily,however the young lads behind the counter put 2 and 2 together (Um, how many young South African women would be travelling on their own to visit Blair Athol...exactly) as soon as they discovered "who I was" I was given the VIP tour (really just means not with the masses.) I , by this time am rather used to seeing computer screens assisting in the whisky making process, @ Blair Athol they are only introducing that now. Many of the Diageo distilleries do very high volumes of distillation and therefore mature casks 'off-site' due to lack of maturation warehouses . This is not the case with Blair Athol, all their new make spirit is matured on site, the spirit intended for Bells however is tankered away to be matured else where.
Now I tried my very best to get more as to what's in Bells( yes, yes, its not my dram of choice, but one has to face facts; its what most entry level whisky drinkers in SA start off with.) I got nothing, apart from the facts that Bells is matured in ex-boubon casks(off-site, he could not give me number of years) and Blair Athol new make spirit is matured on site in European Oak sherry casks. I tried their cask strength whisky ( only available @ the distillery shop) 55% alc, no age statement, great fruity,sherry flavours, usually I would prefer my cask strength with a splash of water, this time round the water was not preferred...( Photos will be uploaded Thursday, stunning distillery!)
And so my Whirlwind Whisky Tour is coming to an end. I sadly have no more distillery visits left. I do however have a whisky bar or 2 to hit in London town... And that I will be sure to report back on. Now, on the train back to Edinburgh to catch my evening flight to London. Scotland you have found a very special place in my heart (ya,ya soppy I know, but its true)
A few memories I will take with me:
The friendly, helpful locals, the fresh country side smells, the magical sweet aromas in the distilleries, the smell of peated barley, the magical Macallan Haggis, the surplus of smoked salmon I consumed,my first time in Wellies ( I flippin loved it) Glenmorangie's tall stills, the peat bogs in Islay, the warm peaty Lagavulin beer (wash) I tried,the views from my bed in Glenmorangie House and Port Charlotte Hotel, pouring myself a wee dram straight from the cask @ Caol Ila and tasting whiskies straight from the casks @ Bunnahbhain.
Its been magical, Scotland, and I will be back.
Slainte.
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View from lunch table... Man in kilt... Only in Scotland

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And more...

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Train trip...

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Train from Edinburgh to Pitlochry (Blair Athol)

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My dear Bagpipers...

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Fringe Fest, up & running

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Edinburgh and Bagpipes in the sun

In the sun, sipping a Peroni( just finished a stunning tomato pasta), it feels as if the sun is shinning directly on me, and me alone. I have spent the afternoon wondering the stunning streets of Edinburgh, Fringe festival is up and running so there is an electric vibe. The Royal Mile is buzzing with local shops including the famous "royal mile whiskies" ( which ships whisky all around the world) cheese delis and cashmere shops. Local amazingly talented musicians perform on the street corners, men are wearing kilts (yay) , and people are basking in the rare Scottish sun.
I don't know why it is, but over the last few months, every time I hear bagpipes, I get tears in my eyes... I know many people find the peculiar sound utterly annoying, but for me it evokes emotion and instant heritage. Edinburgh is wonderful, I would have preferred to discover this city with a few close friends, but none the less, I am a solo traveller this time round and making the most of it!
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Awards for Candice & Islay Airport...

Apart from this trip being 100% surreal and breathtaking, there are one or two things I have learnt on this trip, which I believe I need an award for.
1: The Award for Living Light. My dear family in particular know that I just CAN'T pack light! Its a fact, just as there is night and day: I, Candice Baker: don't pack light. Now, for me to get by for 4 days with mere hand luggage, I do believe it should have snowed on Table
Mountain to commemorate this momentous 4 days!
2: The Award for understanding the STRONG Scottish accent on Islay. I don't know how foreigners (who don't have English as their mother tongue) get by on this 'wee island. My listening skills were stretched. To their limits and I actually laughed a few times last night @ dinner listening to locals conversations... I laughed because I could not eavesdrop as... And they were speaking ENGLISH, my mother tongue! Throw in some distilling terminology, and what can I say, I should maybe have hired a translator... None the less, I had conversations with locals, learned finer details @ the distilleries, and fell in love.
Don't get too excited, did not fall for a strapping young lad in a kilt, I fell in love with Islay.
The hospitality has been phenomenal, the kindness and warmth was 100% genuine. These people live an enviable simple life, its safe, its beautiful, there is a beautiful slow life that resonates through the island. Maybe this adds to the beauty and mystique of Islay whisky... Its not just the peat folks, its a magical whisky island, filled with great, passionate people. If you ever come to Scotland, Islay is a quick 40min flight, well worth it! ( Tip: I have travelled quite some in my life, and the security search on Islay is the most intense I have EVER faced. Brace your self: they searched my hand luggage with a fine tooth and comb, I did have a little laugh: I was @ the smallest airport I've ever departed from, on an Island 95% of the world probably don't know of, being searched as if I was Osama bin Laden (in disguise.) It beats New York and London for security. The last award is to the Islay Airport: best security check in the world!
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Bowmore

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My view @ dinner... Yip, its still light out there...

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Last day on Islay comes to an end...

CAPTIONS:

• Bunnahabhian's traditional Oregon Pine Washback
• They use the old style traditional revolving rakes, not the lauter system
• Inside Caol Ila's washbacks, you can see the froth being created from the yeast added to the wash
• More fermentation
• Caol Ila's very traditional Malt Mill
• Caol Ila's operating panel (quite old school, compared to the computers others use)
• Caol lla's famous Still House
• Pouring a dram straight from the cask (Aged 4 years in Bourbon cask , 35ppm, 58%alc)
• Lagavulin's Spirit safe
  
  
  

This morning I was picked up by Andrew and taken on 'lil drive to Bunnahabhain (most northerly distillery on Islay)Silent season here, but a very interesting experience! To be honest I did spend most of the time trying to understand his very intense Scottish accent. But got some useful bits out for sure! Unlike the rest of Islays distilleries, they peat their core range barley to only 1ppm! Compared to Laphroaig and Ardbeg folks: 55-60 ppm, that's nothing!Oh and they have released a peaty one, peated to 35ppm... Bascule, its on its way! Then to Caol Ila, stunning spot nestled in a wee bay, view from the Still Room is breath taking. Tour was good, but not 100% memorable. They send 90% of new make spirit, straight to the mainland to be matured and blended into Johnnie Walker blends mainly. Only 10% goes into the famous Caol Ila malt (not really matured on site either, quite sad to realise...)
Then onto the famous Lagavulin. Was taken around by a very knowledgeable young women, who has worked there since 2006. Gave me the guided tour, and I got to taste the wash, straight from the washback , warm, smokey beer really... Great to experience though!!
Now all checked into my little B&B in the village of Bowmore, yes folks, its not just a distillery... @ the Lochside hotel and pub now, grabbing a bite to eat.
I'll upload a pic of my view, phenomenal. I have my faithful Laphroaig Quarter Cask as my pre-drink, will let you know what the dinner is like... Slainte!
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My view from Breakfast...

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And today...

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Yesterday

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Waking up so the sounds of a weather change...

Islay was very good to me yesterday. Sunny patches, gorgeous white clouds. No wind. This morning I set my alarm to squeeze in a discovery walk before breakfast. Curtains still all closed, I awoke, and I could hear the waves and wind, slightly more so than when I went to bed last night... Mind you, the waves are more similar to lapping water than Sea Point's crashing waves... But there was a change...The waves are coming in faster, more rapidly, and as the rain splatters upon my windows (now framed by open curtains), and the wind blows (rather determinedly) upon the old beveled glass, I lie in bed, coffee in hand, happy not to be outside walking, but rather snuggled up in my comfy bed, overlooking the choppy grey ocean. And apart from nature, no other sounds come into play this morning. There are no cars, no sirens, no construction... The weather might have evolved over night and made itself more audible, but this is still quiet, serene, un-touched nature...
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Upside down..

Things are a tad delayed on Islay, just an FYI.
Read the "Walking 3 Miles" post BEFORE the "Women on whisky" post... Hope it makes sense!
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Yum... Very rare taste!

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Folks.. I'm here!

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Walking 3 miles along Islay's tiny road- Laphroaig to Ardbeg

Wish I could have had a camera man with me... It was HiLARIOUS! I walked 3 miles ( 1 mile = about 1.6km) from distillery to distillery. Please note chaps, this road is TINY, no lines, no shoulders, and defiantly no pedestrian path...
Could not book a taxi, so walked the almost 5 km's... It was sunny @ the beginning, took some stunning snaps.... Then got a tad cold + drizzly ( thanks ma for your rain jacket) so believe it or not, I whipped out my mini Laphroaig Quarter cask whisky and had a little slug...I mean, why not on Islay, and had the wee dram in my bag... Believe me I did laugh @ myself... Me , the only pedestrian for 4.8 Km, 2 heavy bags, camera in 1 hand, whisky in the other , rain and sheep keeping me company...what a superb experience! Now @ Ardbeg, about to have a bite to eat, then touring the distillery @ 3.
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Ardbeg

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Women on whisky

CAPTIONS:
The Ardbeg Collection

A wee dram

I received the full range tasting

The Chairman's Study, the private tasting room I was treated to.

The Ardbeg Spirit Safe

The Lauter blades which mix the barley and and the water in the Mash Tun

Outside Ardbeg... no these barrels don't have spirit in them

Um.... Ardbeg?.....

So far, I have been to 4 very different unique distilleries and been guided by 4 VERY clued up passionate women. Varying ages, but all oozing passion, intensity and love for how this magical spirit comes to life! Today @ Ardbeg I was once again led by a phenomenal women, Jackie Thompson. We had a one on one tour of the distillery, first though a long in-depth chat about the industry and how perceptions and ideas have changed over the years in this rather small niche industry. Everything from 'what's a women's preferred dram' to the level of knowledge that your whisky lover develops through not necessarily drinking more, but a wider variety of the better malts!
Then, as it too was in silent season, I got the full tour with minimal noise and no tour group interruptions. There volume output is the smallest I have encountered so far, only 2 stills(1 wash, 1 spirit still) but I suppose this is one of the factors that gives Ardbeg such a cult following, it does a few phenomenal expressions, ALL with an interesting and entertaining background and none are simply made to 'bring out a new expressions' as quite a few brands tend to do now a days.
I then did an in-depth tasting in their "chairman's study" (by appointment only) photos will be uploaded shortly! Great nook to discover some of the rarer Ardbegs!
In their wonderful shop I purchased the new Ardbeg Supernova 2010. Stunning cask strength (60.1%)whisky for Bascule. I know @ least one of my whisky members who will be utterly excited by this...oh and some gorgeous leather coasters for my whisky @ home ( dear Brother, please chuck those silly plastic ones away... Merci)
Just checked into Port Charlotte Hotel, stunning!
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